Perhaps reflecting the boom in the watch industry, Watches & Wonders 2023 was attended by 48 manufacturers. The evolution of the exterior that has progressed since 2015 seems to have finally been completed this year. At the moment, I have selected five. Both models have a well-made exterior. However, with the “Kronos Japan Edition” released in June, the watch you choose may change.
Article published on April 19, 2023
1st Place: TAG Heuer “TAG Heuer Carrera Date”
An ambitious work that cleverly incorporates the current trend of short rugs and dome windshields. Personally, I prefer the Carrera Calibre 7 with a diameter of 36 mm, but considering the impact, it will be this game. I never expected that a mass-produced manufacturer like TAG Heuer would adopt a bezel-less case. At first glance, it looks retro, but it has a neat 21st century design.
TAG Heuer “TAG Heuer Carrera Date”
Automatic (Cal.7). Power reserve about 56 hours. SS case (diameter 36.0 mm). Water resistant to 50m. 396,000 yen (tax included).
In addition, the details are well packed, such as the packing of the windshield is not noticeable. In the past, TAG Heuer had variations in claws depending on the model, but it can be said that this is a thing of the past. The real thing is much more attractive than the photo. Considering the content, is the price reasonable?
2nd Place: Tudor “Black Bay 54”
A very compact diver’s watch with a diameter of 37 mm and a thickness of approximately 11 mm. By deliberately adopting a rounded windshield, we succeeded in incorporating a retro feel that is different from other models.
The weight balance between the watch and bracelet is also excellent. Together with the T-fit buckle, which can be finely tuned, the fit should be comfortable. It may not suit those who prefer heavy watches, but the light comfort is a major beauty of this work.
Tudor “Black Bay 54”
Automatic winding (Cal.MT5400). 27 stones. Power reserve about 70 hours. SS (diameter 37 mm). Water resistant to 200m. Three-row breath model: 490,600 yen (tax included). Rubber strap model: 463,100 yen (tax included).
Considering the content, is the price a bargain? However, it will be difficult to obtain. It’s perfect for deep watch lovers, as well as those looking for a mechanical watch that can be used on a daily basis.
3rd Place: Grand Seiko “Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph”
A chronograph that makes full use of the masterpiece 9SA5 calibre. By modifying the existing chronograph, it has a finish worthy of a Grand Seiko and even more durability. The clutch on all three totalizers is also a conscientious design. It is by no means a thin watch, but the thickness of the middle case is well suppressed by making the return thinner and using a dome windshield.
Grand Seiko “Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph SLGC001”
Automatic winding (Cal.9SC5). 60 stone. 36,000 vibrations per hour. Power reserve about 72 hours. Bright titanium case (diameter 43.2 mm, thickness 15.3 mm). Water resistant to 10 ATM. 1,815,000 yen (tax included). Scheduled to be released on June 9, 2023.
Also, because the lug is short, the actual fit is much lighter than it looks. Based on the design of the Grand Seiko but also suppressing current trends, this work symbolizes the maturity of the Grand Seiko. Personally, I like the dial with reduced base treatment like a chronograph.
No. 4: Cartier “Tank Louis Cartier”
The Tank Normal is ideal, but it is not practical to obtain because it is a limited edition model. That’s why I chose the basic “Tank Louis Cartier”. While inheriting the shape of the existing tank, it plays with the dial like Cartier in recent years. Considering the old Cartier, which used only Roman numeral indexes on silver, it is something completely different.
(left) Lucas Horenburg © Cartier
(middle, right) Vincent Wulveryck © Cartier
(Left) Cartier “Tank Louis Cartier”
Manual winding (Cal.1917 MC). 18K pg case (length 33.7× width 25.5mm, thickness 6.6mm). Everyday life waterproof. The price is 1,940,400 yen (tax included).
(Middle) Cartier “Tank Louis Cartier”
Manual winding (Cal.1917 MC). 18KYG case (length 33.7× width 25.5mm, thickness 6.6mm). Everyday life waterproof. Price 1,900,800 yen (tax included).
(Right) Cartier “Tank Louis Cartier”
Manual winding (Cal.1917 MC). 18KYG case (length 33.7× width 25.5mm, thickness 6.6mm). Everyday life waterproof. Price 1,900,800 yen (tax included).
The in-house case has little surface distortion and good corners. The lacquered dial is also of good quality. No one will choose the first one, but I highly recommend it to those who have more than one. The 1917MC calibre is an improved version of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 846 calibre. It’s not as good as the 846 calibre, but it’s more practical.
5th Place: A. Lange & Söhne “Odysseus Chronograph”
Limited to 100 pieces worldwide, the list price exceeds 20 million even though it is a chronograph. I chose it because the exterior and movement were unexpectedly well made. The unique push button that allows you to operate the chronograph and adjust the date and day depending on the position of the crown. Nevertheless, the operation feeling is smooth.
A. Lange & Söhne “Odysseus Chronograph”
Automatic (Cal.L156.1 DATOMATIC). 52 stone. 28,800 vibrations per hour. Power reserve about 50 hours. SS case (diameter 42.5mm, thickness 14.2mm). Water resistant to 12 ATM. Limited edition of 100 pieces worldwide. Pricing inquiry.
There is also no other movement that uses a vertical clutch to keep it compact. This is probably the only chronograph that uses a lever that moves the column wheel vertically rather than horizontally. A model with such a degree of perfection that it would be a shame to make it a limited edition.
Odysseus is not light-hearted, but the balance between the watch and bracelet is also decent. It will be suitable for everyday use. It’s just that the price is not cheap.
Based on
Watches & Wonders 2023 saw more watches with more attention to the exterior than movements. I get the impression that the race to develop a movement a decade ago has come to an end, and instead of focusing on bracelets and dials. In particular, vivid dials can be said to be a trend in 2023 following last year.
The five watches featured here are all watches with exteriors to look at. In addition, all models were comfortable to wear and did not come off. It feels like a different world from 10 years ago, when I was in a hurry to release new works.
