[Mechanical type 40,000 yen]The latest reproducing the British Army military watch manufactured by “OMEGA” and 12 other companies nicknamed “Dirty Dozen”|OUTLINE News no.72 – Watch LIFE NEWS | Watch Life News | Watch life comprehensive news site

The watch brand “Outline”, developed by the general editor-in-chief of watch magazines such as Power Watch and Low Beat, has released its latest work for the first time in half a year. This time, the “Military Type 1940” was developed with the design motif of the so-called “Dirty Dozen”, which is also known as a masterpiece that symbolizes the design of military watches. It is scheduled to go on sale on Saturday, June 3.

“Dirty Dozen” means the management code “W.W.W.” It refers to a military watch developed for the British army in 1944.

At that time, it was difficult for a single company to supply the military, so it was manufactured by 12 Swiss watch manufacturers. This led to the nickname “Dirty Dozen” being used by watch collectors in 1960s war films, comparing it to “The Dirty Dozen,” in which 12 prisoners perform special operations during the Normandy landings during World War II.

The photo above shows the Dirty Dozen manufactured by 7 out of 12 companies. As you can see, the basic design is the same. From top right: Buren, Lemania, Timor, bottom row: Jaeger-LeCoultre, Seema, Omega, Vertex

By the way, the original management code, W.W.W., is taken from the acronym “Water proof Wrist Watch” and means waterproof watch. However, as a condition for military use, in addition to waterproof performance, the military has established standards that emphasize visibility not only in terms of performance but also in terms of design, such as “installing a hand-wound small seconds movement” and “using Arabic numerals on the black dial, and making both the numbers and the hour and minute hands luminous”.

For this reason, watches made by 12 companies use black dials so that they do not stand out from enemies. The basic design was almost the same for each company, such as a large small seconds at 6 o’clock, an index using thick Arabic numerals, a minute index on the outer circumference of the dial connected like a railway line called a railway, and a thick hour and minute hand (see photo above). It was such a complete design.

This design was passed down to various military watches and has become known as a symbolic design of military watches even today.

Above is an Omega Dirty Dozen from the 1940s. Below is the new military Type 1940 replaced with a NATO belt

By the way, the new “Military Type 1940” featured this time is actually the second generation. The main difference from the previous work is that it has been changed from an automatic movement to a hand-wound movement with small seconds. Along with that, it became possible to design the small seconds firmly and large, so the overall balance was improved to be military-like, and the atmosphere was quite attractive closer to the original style of the Dirty Dozen at that time. In addition to this type with the motif of the Dirty Dozen, there is also a lineup of “B-watch” types developed for the German army.

It is currently being released on the crowdfunding “WATCH Makers” specializing in watches. Moreover, although it is limited to 30 bottles, you can apply for an early bird discount in the 30,000 yen range, so please check it out.


The new Military Type 1940. Thick Arabic numerals with thick hour and minute hands. And the style with a railway minute index on the outer circumference is a representative military design reminiscent of a military watch.

・Model number: Ref.YK20231-12
・Material: (Case) 316L stainless steel, (belt, Japan) cowhide
・Size: Case diameter 38mm, case thickness 11.10mm
・ Waterproof: 5 ATM water resistance (waterproof for daily life)
・Drive system: Manual winding (Cal.2705)
・Function: Small seconds
・Suggested retail price: 47,300 yen (assembly: Japan)
・Limited number: 200
・Warranty period: 1 year

Words ◎ Daisuke Horiuchi (Editor)

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