This is a representative collection of Ulysses Nardan, and is known for being one of the first in the watch industry to use silicon for escapements. In September 2025, a limited edition model for the Japan market was released from the “Freak X”, which is based on this freak. What is the power of the Japan-only model with an enamel dial made by Donze Kadran?
Ulysses Nardin is now available as a “Freak X Gray Enamel Japan Limited Edition”!
In 2001, Ulysse Nardin’s “Freak” was one of the first in the watch industry to incorporate silicon material into escapements. In addition, “no dial. Under the concept of “no boundaries”, it is still known as an innovative watch for its original mechanism and design, which has a huge carousel in the center of the face instead of hands, and does not have a crown. Since its inception, this collection has been a result of trial and error, and among them, the “Freak X” is a model born in 2019. The Freak X is a more basic model of the Freak, and has a crown at the 3 o’clock position of the case.
From such a freak X, a limited edition model for the Japan market has appeared. It is a “Freak X Gray Enamel Japan Limited Model”.
Ulysses Nardan “Freak X Gray Enamel Japan Limited Edition” Ref.2303-270LE-1AE-J/3A
Automatic winding (Cal. UN-230). 21 stone. 21,600 vibrations/hour. Power reserve approx. 72 hours. Ti case (diameter 43 mm). 50m water resistance. Limited to Japan 25 pieces. 7,007,000 yen (tax included).
The feature of this work, which is sold in only 25 pieces in Japan alone, is that it has a gray enamel disc “Guilloche Franke” combined with guilloché decorations. This disc is currently under the umbrella of Ulysses Nardan, and is produced by Donze Kadran, a workshop specializing in enamel dials.
As mentioned above, freaks do not have hands or dials. Instead, the movement itself rotates, with a pointer on the enamel disc pointing to the hours and the flying carousel pointing to the minutes. The Freak X’s rotating disc is a movable part integrated with the movement and has multiple screws, making the enamel process more complex than that of a typical dial.
Enamel disc by Donze Kadran. It is made of thermally stable white gold with a guilloché flank. The gray enamel, which is the first to be used in Freak X, gives a calm impression.
Donze Cadran was founded in 1972 by enamel craftsman Francis Donze in Le Locle, Switzerland, not far from the Ulysses Nardin’s Manufacture. Ulysse Nardan began working with Donze Kadran in the 1980s and took over the atelier in 2011. The atelier, which inherits traditional enameling techniques such as Grand Foux, Croisonne, Champlabe and Guillaumet Franke, produces around 1,200 dials per year and is also provided to watchmakers and institutions responsible for the restoration of historical works other than Ulysses Nardin.
Dontse Kadran overcomes this complexity with his exceptional skills. The discs are guilloché to enhance the visual effect of the rotating carousel, then the solid compounds of the raw materials are cleaned, and then turned into a fine powder using a traditional mortar and pestle, and then a meticulous process ensures uniformity and color into gray enamel. In addition, this gray enamel was developed for this Freak X. The properly blended pigment is added with water and carefully applied to the plate. It is then fired at about 800°C, cooled and washed, and then applied with 3~4 layers of pigment to the firing process, each layer enhances the depth, intensity, and brilliance of the color. Once the firing is complete, the disc is polished by hand.
There is a risk of defects such as bubbles and cracks in the kiln during firing, often requiring rework of the process. Under such circumstances, the rotating discs of this work are produced one by one, and each disc takes at least a full day, about 8 to 12 hours, to complete, and no two discs are exactly the same. As a tribute to such processes and techniques, for the first time in Freak X, the secret “DONZÉ ÉMAIL” engraving was decorated on the hour disc.
The discreet inscription “DONZÉ ÉMAIL” changes its position over time.
While maintaining the avant-garde character unique to freaks, this work is finished with a design that is not too assertive by combining a calm gray guilloché Franke disc. The titanium case has a black DLC finish, and the black color contributes to this subdued design, while also gaining scratch resistance. The strap is made of black ballistic rubber with white stitching, creating a sense of unity in the design.
The movement is an automatic Cal.UN-230. It is also used in other Freak X, and is essential for establishing the flying carousel mechanism in this game. The rotor is made of 18K gold and is individually engraved with a serial number.
The selling price of this work is 7,007,000 yen including tax. The warranty period after purchase is 5 years.
Contact info: Ulysse Nardan/Sawwind Japan Tel.03-5211-1791
Product page: https://www.ulysse-nardin.com/ja-jp/watches/freak/2303-270le-1ae-j-3a
