What kind of image do you have of a diver’s watch? The impression should vary greatly depending on age and generation. In the watch industry, the ‘big thick’ boom arrived from the late 1990s to the mid-2010s. Among these trends, diver’s watches have become especially larger in size.
Models boasting high specs like 1000m water resistance, as well as models with case diameters over 45mm and case thicknesses over 20mm that pursue visual impact over practicality, have been released one after another by various manufacturers. Many products make you feel “only suitable for diving or marine resorts. It’s not practical for everyday use,” so for those interested in watches during this period, the image of “divers = big thick” may have become established.
However, extremes do not last long. First, the standard watch returned to the “under 40mm” size. The trend of sports and diver’s watches has also settled on practical sizes around 40mm, while not as much as the smaller dress watches.
As can be seen from the reissue models from various companies called “Retro Divers” mentioned in this column, before the “big-thick” boom, divers were not very large. By the mid-1990s, a subtle sporty look that matched chronographs and divers to suit styles was quietly spreading among some fashionistas.
This time, we introduce Grand Seiko’s new diver’s watch, the “Evolution 9 Collection Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver,” which was just unveiled this spring at the Geneva Watch Fair. It is a piece that accurately captures contemporary trends while embodying Japanese aesthetics and technology, making it a quintessential piece for the company.
The dial is inspired by the magnificent ocean currents surrounding Japan, such as the Kuroshio and Oyashio currents. This detail symbolizes a quiet luxury design that conveys refined craftsmanship the more you look at it, without being overly assertive. Additionally, attention should be paid to the Spring Drive movement, which only Seiko has put into practical use. By combining the advantages of both mechanical and quartz systems with the latest caliber, it achieved an unprecedented high precision of ‘annual deviation (one-year accuracy deviation) of 20 seconds±’ for a diver.
Spring Drive Movement
Also, the slim size of 40.8mm case diameter and 12.9mm thickness, which goes beyond the trend of “big thickness,” is not to be missed. It uses Seiko’s proprietary material ‘Bright Titanium,’ which combines beautiful shine with lightweight design, and forms the case and bracelet. The bracelet features a newly developed “slide lock extender system” adjustment mechanism. Fine adjustments to fit can be easily made without tools.
The bracelet features a newly developed ‘slide lock extender system’
Among Grand Seiko’s world-renowned brands, this model is especially positioned as sporty. While offering hard specs that set it apart from so-called luxury sports, it delivers a light and comfortable fit comparable to a standard watch. This piece evokes the end of the “big-thick” boom and the subtle trends seen in the mid-1990s, making it a perfect choice for men who want to balance style and wellness.
GRAND SEIKO / Evolution 9 Collection Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver
Price: Ref. SLGB023 (Blue), Ref.SLGB025 (Green) each 1,650,000 yen (tax included) Case diameter: 40.8mm
Case thickness: 12.9 mm
Movement: Spring Drive automatic (Cal.9RB1)
Power reserve: approximately 72 hours
Case & bracelet: Bright titanium, unidirectional bezel
Water resistance: 300m air diving water resistance
Text : Yasuhito Shibuya
